"Pitta dominant people are made of fire; they're quite rebellious," Dr. Anoop Krishna told me as he checked my wrist. My pulse sped up. "The fire is burning inside you; it can either destroy or purify. And you need to understand when it is time to let go, to find your water. It's like a dance."
I was having an Ayurvedic reading in the middle of the Indian Ocean, on a small archipelago 1,000 miles northeast of Kenya. It was my first day at the Four Seasons Seychelles on Mahé, and I wasn't surprised to hear I was at risk of burnout. (Nonstop travel and looming deadlines will do that.) It felt fitting that water was the remedy.
Aerial view of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles (Image provided by Four Seasons Resort)
I was on an island-hopping adventure with Four Seasons Resorts, and would soon venture out to Desroches Island, an even smaller sand cay in the outer islands of the Seychelles. The combination of both properties offers a two-island escape for travelers off the coast of East Africa, one I was eager to explore. Though I'd spent time in East Africa—Kenya, Rwanda, and Tanzania (from whence I was arriving, from Four Seasons Serengeti), I'd yet to experience an African island. And, though I'd explored the Maldives and Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean, these nations offered an entirely different cultural experience.
The islands of East Africa have long held a distinctive allure, a promise of volcanic mountains, pristine coasts, rare wildlife, and rich cultural traditions. (Not to mention palm tree-shaded dirt paths leading to seaside bungalows and white-sand beaches.) As an avowed safari lover, I'd traveled many times to that part of the world in the past several years, but always inland. I loved the savannahs of the Serengeti and Maasai Mara, relishing the open-air, dust-filled adventure and the humbling spectacle of lions and elephants stalking the plains. But to say that a safari is always a relaxing vacation is not quite the case—and it's not exactly the draw, either.
I always returned from having traversed the wild African expanse—in old-school 4x4 Jeeps, traditional wooden canoes, and tiny Safari Link planes—slightly worse for the wear (physically, at least—spiritually I was nothing short of revived). So, the opportunity to experience a truly luxurious East African vacation—beginning in the grasslands of Tanzania and concluding in the private islands of the Seychelles—was top of my list.
Beach view of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles (Image provided by Four Seasons Resort)
Enter: The Four Seasons Safari and Islands Collection, which incentivizes guests to stay in two or more of their properties in sub-Saharan Africa, across Mauritius, South Africa, and (my current selection) Tanzania and Seychelles. Plus, you can get up to $1,300 in credits, round-trip airport ground transportation, and private butler service for the duration of your stay. (Offer valid for travel between May 11 - Dec 22, 2026, Offers are subject to availability at time of booking. Blackout dates and other restrictions may apply. See site for details.)
And, while some destinations can seem too good to be true, I'm happy to report that the Seychelles exceeded expectations from the moment I arrived. When I landed in Mahé, I truly felt I was discovering another side of Africa, a Garden of Eden (as the Seychelles is called). The 115-island archipelago is a tropical idyll of mountainous, granitic inner islands and flat, coral outer islands. Mahé is the largest island, home to the capital of Victoria, the island's cultural and urban metropolis. Though 'metropolis' is a misleading term, even the busiest roads on the island maintain a distinct, tropical, laid-back, colorful ambiance and energy.
The Four Seasons Seychelles was the first of my two-island sojourn, and the property itself felt like an enchanting juxtaposition—ultra-chic treehouse villas tucked amidst utterly wild tropical jungles, fine dining al fresco along the pristine white-sand beach of Petit Anse bay. The resort overlooks a horseshoe-shaped cove along the island's southwest coast, and I luxuriated in my private infinity pool, soaked in the outdoor rain showers, and watched the sunset from my deck (cocktail in hand). But, despite all the luxury, the wisdom imparted by my Ayurvedic healer that very first day was never far from my mind—luckily, I discovered that in the Seychelles, the pursuit of pleasure and the pursuit of wellness aren't mutually exclusive.
Dining view of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles (Image provided by Four Seasons Resort)
On the second morning of the trip, we hiked up to the quartz summit of the surrounding mountaintops, and I followed along as our host, Akshay, led us on a guided meditation: "Breathe in the negativity, and breathe it out. Remember the beautiful place we're in—have your breath match the waves." I felt the sun on my skin, and the cool, salty breeze drifting up from the ocean below (a welcome reprieve in the tropical heat), as I focused on his words. And in that moment, the wisdom of another noted philosopher (Leonard Cohen) echoed in my ears: "If you don't become the ocean, you'll be seasick every day."
Perhaps it was the beauty of my surroundings, but I was ready to be transformed. And what better place than an African atoll in the middle of the Indian Ocean, surrounded by an endless expanse of turquoise water and crystal-clear lagoons? And the next morning, I set out even further to sea, boarding a tiny plane for the 143-mile journey southwest to Desroches, a coral sand island roughly 3.5 miles long and a mile wide. Despite its diminutive size, Desroches is the largest island in the Amirantes Group, and is situated on the edge of a submerged atoll, ringed by roughly 24 miles of sunken coral reef, with water depths dropping to over 3,000 feet within two miles from the shore. (Hence the world-famous scuba diving).
Aerial view of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island (Image provided by Four Seasons Resort)
The island is also a crucial nesting site for green and hawksbill turtles, and I spent an afternoon visiting with the mellow, oversized creatures—the Four Seasons works with conservation partners to protect their natural habitat. (I also experienced the brand's dedication to eco-tourism in Mahé, when I snorkeled with marine educators from Ocean Wise to the coral reef restoration project just beyond the shore.)
While I couldn't have fathomed a more exquisite seaside escape than my previous hideaway in Mahé, I soon discovered that the Four Seasons Desroches is equally magnificent—an intimate, laid-back paradise where time seems to stand still. We traveled everywhere by bike, and by the first afternoon, it felt like I had met everyone on the island—from fellow guests to bartenders to gift-shop curators to paddleboard instructors. It was a wonderful, ever-entertaining mix of characters, guests, and locals alike, all seeming to share in the story and wonders of the tiny island and its stunning landscape. (And I'm not alone in my perception of its uniqueness—I soon learned that none other than Mike White, founder of the White Lotus, had visited the island just before I arrived, scouting final locations for the upcoming season).
Villa view of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island (Image provided by Four Seasons Resort)
Many places like to advertise their destinations as barefoot luxury, but in Desroches, it truly felt like just that. Days were spent in and out of the emerald green water—from diving to paddleboarding to surfing ("more board, more reward"), and more. And, within just 24 hours, I truly felt like I'd made myself at home. (If only my home were so elegantly adorned). And there was truly never a reason to leave your villa, with the private beach, graceful, airy interiors, and plunge pools—especially when you ordered a floating breakfast to your villa in the morning.
Beach view of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island (Image provided by Four Seasons Resort)
But what truly made this private island feel like home was the people and our hosts. I'd been practicing my Swahili with my Tanzanian housekeeper, Godfrey, who'd recently transferred to the Seychelles from Four Seasons Serengeti—he noticed the Maasai jewelry and artwork beside my suitcase, and was delighted by my fledgling attempts at the language. On the last night of my trip, I found a Swahili lesson in palm leaves on my bed, with a handwritten list of words to practice before my next visit. (I've never been more excited about homework in my life.)
In the end, I did find my balance in the waters of the Seychelles—in breathing in the waves, in becoming like the ocean. Unpredictable, maybe, but also constant and ever-changing. If this feels a bit too heady for you, dear reader, one trip to the Seychelles will have you believing in the restorative powers of the Indian Ocean, as well. Happy travels.
