"Pardon me, do you have any Grey Poupon?"
I was sitting on the cushioned stern on my chartered yacht, anchored somewhere off the coast of Bora Bora, and watching the most spectacular sunset of my entire life, when I heard that call from a neighboring catamaran. Of course, even if you weren’t familiar with the famous 1980s commercial, the sentiment rang loud and clear—unmitigated joy at the sheer ludicrousness of our luxurious, beautiful surroundings in the South Pacific.
There are many things that could be considered overrated on this planet, but French Polynesia, dear reader, isn’t one of them. And there’s never been a better time to treat yourself to a warming getaway, a reward for surviving the polar vortex that has sent an Arctic chill across the Northern Hemisphere this winter.
Luckily, the best months to visit French Polynesia are coming soon, in the dry season from May through October. Even better? United Airlines is starting daily service between San Francisco and Tahiti this June, while Air France and Air Tahiti Nui already offer nonstop service from Papeete to New York and Los Angeles. Thanks to this increased airlift, as well as the addition of budget carriers such as French Bee, trips to Tahiti have never been more affordable—round-trip tickets from the west coast are often available for under $500 (not bad for a nearly ten-hour one-way flight). The splendors of the South Pacific await.
Island-Hopping in the South Pacific
(Photo provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
So, once you’ve traveled across the world, which destination do you choose? Though the 118 islands and atolls are rather small, French Polynesia’s oceanic territory is roughly the size of Europe, covering two million square miles in the South Pacific. For contrast, the landmass of all the islands is only up to 1,600 square miles—roughly the size of Rhode Island, the smallest state in the US. And, of the five archipelagos within French Polynesia—including Tuamotu, Marquesas, Gambier, and Austral—we recommend the Society Islands for their stunning, jagged volcanic peaks and vibrant coral reefs.
Additionally, the island chain is close to Papeete, on the island of Tahiti, which is majorly useful in terms of travel, as other remote islands in French Polynesia are far more difficult to access. The Society Islands were named, in part, after their proximity to one another, by Captain James Cook in 1769. Raiatea, in the Leeward Islands, is a mere 45-minute flight, while nearby Moorea, in the Windward chain, is only 25 minutes by ferry.
And, the best way to see a multitude of islands is by yacht—we recommend sailing on a privately manned vessel via Tahiti Yacht Charter or Dream Yacht Worldwide, which can be booked in advance with captains, chefs, and guides to sail the high seas. This island-hopping adventure is the perfect way to appreciate the devastating beauty of the region, particularly the vastness of the surrounding ocean. French Polynesia has recently announced the creation of the world’s largest Marine Protected Area, to prevent deep-sea mining and protect the region’s abundant wildlife. Currently, French Polynesia has over a thousand species of fish, 21 species of shark, and vibrant coral reefs.
Touch Down: Taha’a
(Photo provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
We don’t recommend spending the entire time at sea, however, as the islands of French Polynesia are just as gorgeous as the ocean—plus, a comfortable bed is truly the greatest luxury after a long flight. My trip was just over a week, and I spent time in Papeete, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, Terioara, and more, and these visits were crucial to understanding the beauty of the Polynesian culture, as well. Book-end your visit with stays in retreats across the archipelago—we recommend two private islands: Vahine, and Terioara.
My first stop was Vahine Private Island, a stunningly remote 23-acre retreat with coconut groves, crystal-blue lagoons, and white-sand beaches. While I opted for the royal villa, now is certainly the moment to take advantage of the overwater bungalow (French Polynesia is a pioneer in the floating luxury accommodation, alongside the Maldives, of course). Word to the wise—pack water shoes or aquasocks, as you will find the flourishing coral reef a bit difficult when swimming or wading in the water.
The next morning, we embarked on a Poerani Tour, where we explored the Iorana pearl farm, Mana’o Tahiti Rum— ‘Mana’o’ is to remember, and the name pays homage to the archipelago’s rich history of growing sugarcane—as well as a Vanilla Plantation, of course (Taha’a is known as the Vanilla Island). I also learned crucial Tahitian fashion cues: “If you’re taken, you wear a flower on your left side, if you’re single, then on the right side. Or, if you’re open—you put a flower on both sides,” explained Tahiti travel specialist, Heifara Barff.
The next day, we embarked on an Aroha Experiences tour of Raiatea with Naiki Lutz, an all-around expert on all things French Polynesia, and a practitioner of the Tahitian healing ritual, Taurumi. We visited the Raiatea Botanica Garden, and then the holiest place in all of Polynesia: Marae Taputapuatea of Raiatea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tapuapuate is was once considered the central spiritual site of East Polynesia, and its energy and power is felt today. Walking toward the water, Naiki chanted as I tossed my flower offering into the roiling sea.
She explained the legend of the creation of the world by Ta’aroa: “Ta’aroa is a source of all things and we are all related to him, which means we are all connected directly to the divine. So, all we have to do is come back to our heart, to the listening of ourselves,” explained Naiki. I made my wishes to a power greater—yet within—myself, a concept easier to grasp in such an astoundingly beautiful and remote setting as Raiatea.
Bliss & Beyond: The Brando
(Photo provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
Sunbathe like a star, I told myself, lathering up just a bit of the SPF 30–I was staying in the former island residence of a Hollywood legend, I may as well get a movie star glow.
“That SPF works at night,” I heard someone call behind me. Thierry Sommers, The Brando's senior naturalist, was beginning his tour a bit earlier, I suppose—and he was, as always, right. Earlier, we’d embarked on a nature walk through the unspoiled wilds of a nearby island—Thierry barefoot and shirtless, of course.
“We’re just a group of small, tiny rocks, isolated in the middle of the largest ocean,” he explained of Tahiti, and perhaps of the experience of life itself.
I knew to expect unparalleled luxury at The Brando. Situated on the private atoll of Tetioara, with only 35 ultra-chic villas available on the island, each with a plunge pool, private beach, and hammock beneath the coconut palms. By day, I biked everywhere, bringing me back to childhood, and at night, the fine dining and cocktails were absolutely heavenly. I walked along the beach to dinner, watching the sunset, marveling at this beautiful landscape—-and planet. (The Brando will have you thinking globally).
Which is for the best, as I was most impressed by the people I met on the island, and the local guides, who were so informative and passionate about conserving and sharing their Polynesian culture and Tahiti’s natural heritage. The Teriaroa Society is a nonprofit founded by The Brando focused on marine research and sustainability: “We focus on a holistic approach on education and conservation,” said Kealoha Wilkes, a Teriaroa Society nature guide. “We are moving into the future but we have an eye on the past too, Polynesians on embracing modernity while honoring traditions and cultures of the past.”
It’s rare to visit a place so luxurious that’s as committed to leaving no trace. It elevates your experience entirely. To say I was devastated to fly home was an understatement. “When you leave, we give you a shell necklace to make sure you will return,” Thierry had told me. Leaving the island, I clutched my necklace tightly, a farewell token, but also a promise—and one I know I will keep.
