Safari in the Serengeti is a bucket-list item for travelers all over the world. The concept of traveling across the savannas of East Africa evokes images that are seared into the brains of people who’ve yet to even visit. The fiery sunset across the endless plains, herds of zebra and antelope grazing on the short grass, a single acacia tree standing out against the horizon. The vistas memorialized by Ernest Hemingway, Isak Dinesen, and Peter Beard.
The execution of such a trip, however, can often feel overwhelming. For first-time travelers there’s the pressure of getting it right, or knowing they will feel comfortable and taken care of on the journey—a concern especially for those who haven’t visited the continent before. And even for experienced travelers who’ve journeyed all across Africa on an off-road adventure, there’s a different kind of pressure—will this safari be unique enough? Will I feel I’ve truly immersed myself into the wild of this vast landscape?
In short, they don’t want to fly halfway across the world to find themselves experiencing the exact same comforts of home. And if ever there was a moment to forgo WIFI, then this would be it. I was lucky enough to experience a Tanzanian safari from both perspectives this past year, and can report that these two extremes perfectly suit their respective travelers. From five-star luxury to fly-camping beneath the stars, read on for your beginner and expert guide to exploring the grasslands of the Serengeti. The Big Five await.
Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti
My first introduction to Tanzania began in the Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti, a five-star oasis in the famed East African grasslands. I was immediately struck by the distinct character of the property, as well as the realization that it’s perfect for intergenerational travel. Unlike more rugged safari expeditions, which can be more taxing on the body and require an outdoorsy mindset, the Four Seasons offers the perfect safari for travelers who are looking to combine leisure with their Tanzanian adventure.
When the property opened in December 2012, it was the brand’s very first safari lodge in Sub-Saharan Africa. Located in the Central Serengeti, it’s only a 45-minute drive from the Seronera Airstrip (the primary hub for safari planes in the region). Immediately upon arrival, I saw elephants, lions, and zebras en route to our Four Seasons Lodge. The property itself offers an unrivaled vantage point for observing the endless plains (which is the Maasai translation of the word Serengeti). Perched north of the Seronera River Valley, the elevated resort platforms and walkways frame a watering hole that’s active year-round, even when migratory herds have traveled to other sections of the park. I sipped a gin and tonic while watching a lone cape buffalo drink water from just beyond my private balcony.
Rather than other safari lodges, which feature private tents detached from the main dining area, the Four Seasons is more of a hotel-like structure, with one large centralized building connected to the 60 guest rooms and 12 suites via wooden walkways. All rooms are fully air-conditioned (a blessing in the African heat) and an inviting swimming pool is perfect for taking a dip post morning game drive. The lodge also features five standalone villas, ideal for families. Afterward, I carried on my Four Seasons journey in the islands with a stay at the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles and the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches—an itinerary I entirely recommend, especially if it’s your first time in Africa. From the bush to the beach, it’s the ideal combination of adventure and relaxation prior to your return to real life.
Entara Lodges
When I first visited the Central Serengeti with the Four Seasons in the spring, I’d never imagined I’d be returning to Tanzania so soon. This common affliction is known as “khaki fever,” and I highly recommend stocking up on cargo pants and lightweight neutral jackets before you go. You want to blend in with the landscape so a hungry lion doesn’t distinguish you as an individual entity from the safari vehicle. After all, when you travel to this part of Africa, you’re always desperate to return. And thus I found myself eight months later, in early winter, visiting the Southern Serengeti with Entara Lodges. Founded in Arusha in 2021, Entara is dedicated to providing travelers with an off-the-beaten-path, back-to-nature safari experience. I discovered that by stripping safari of its extraneous frills—imported cuisine, high-speed Wi-Fi, on-site fitness rooms—you’re left with the most luxurious feeling of all: utter freedom.
Entara specializes in customized, boutique accommodations and adventures for a discerning clientele looking to travel deeper into the Tanzanian wilderness. I experienced this thrilling brush with the wild my very first night in the Serengeti, hearing lions roar just beyond my canvas tent. I was staying in the Esirai Mobile Camp, a leave-no-trace operation consisting of eight individual tents and an intimate tented dining and lounge area. The camp dynamically migrates between the northern and southern sectors of the park depending on the season. For my visit in January, we were in the southern part of the park, near Naabi Hill to observe the wildebeest calving season. And it wasn’t just baby wildebeest that I saw, I spied infant cheetahs and zebras and warthogs frolicking on the short grasses of the plains. From June to October the camp moves north to Kogatende to catch the spectacular Mara River crossings during the migration.
What stood out the most to me during my stay was the authentic bush hospitality, and the deep sense of connection I felt with the landscape and the people—Entara is dedicated to hiring and promoting locally, and my guides were excellent. We visited Maasai villages, and watched the sunset over the plains with the mandatory gin-and-tonics (they taste better on safari, trust me). And, for guests traveling with Entara, I suggest visiting multiple camps and venturing further into the bush. I explored the Northern Circuit of Tanzania, staying in Olkeri Camp, in Tarangire National Park, as well as Koroi Forest Camp in Arusha National Park and the elegant Katambuga House closer to town. There’s so much to discover in Tanzania alone, and after your first visit, you’re bound to want to return again and again. Luckily, Entara is dedicated to minimizing extraneous costs alongside the aforementioned unnecessary frivolities, so that dream can become a reality for more travelers around the world. See you in the bush.
