The last truly wild place on the planet, there’s nowhere on earth quite like Antarctica. A vast white continent surrounded by a forbidding ocean, the journey to the seventh continent is almost as exhilarating as arriving at your final destination. I’ve wanted to visit Antarctica ever since I can remember learning of its existence. The elusive, icy continent topped my bucket list for decades, up until last winter, when I set sail on my maiden voyage.
I find there are two types of people: those for whom Antarctica is a long-desired expedition — the height of travel — and those for whom it seems like a cold and unnecessary journey. I’m happy to report that if you, too, have fantasized about an Antarctic adventure, there’s no way the trip won’t exceed your expectations. In short, if Antarctica calls to you, heed that siren sound. I was surrounded by the most fascinating people on my expedition, all of whom were called to Antarctica for some reason or another — the wildlife, the mystery, or the journey itself. For many, it is the trip of a lifetime, so the excitement on board is unparalleled.
Arriving in Antarctica is like no other experience on earth. Watching the icebergs float by and impossibly tall mountains rise into the ever-bright sky (the sun never sets in an Antarctic summer), you’re in awe of the beauty of the landscape and the endlessness of the Southern Ocean. The kaleidoscopic colors of blue and white on a sunny day quickly transition to gray and slate with the changeable weather. It’s simply awe-inspiring to visit a land that’s not yet been civilized and dominated by mankind. You’re aware of your own mortality and have a sublime sense of the infinite. A trip to Antarctica is what travel is all about.
(Video provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
Never inhabited by humans, Antarctica is one of the last truly untouched places on Earth. It is a glimpse of the sublime — and an extraordinary amount of penguins. I sailed the Antarctic peninsula on the Viking Polaris, and it was one of the most life-changing experiences of my life. I traveled with my mother, and we shared that unforgettable moment of touching down on our seventh continent together. But how to make this travel dream a reality? Read on for the practical tips and tricks I wish I’d known before my own maiden voyage, and get ready to set sail next winter.
Eternal Summer on the Southernmost Continent
(Image provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
For the most optimal sailing route, depart from Argentina via Patagonia. For my trip with Viking, I landed in Buenos Aires and flew to Ushuaia — where our ship would depart— the next morning. Ushuaia is the southernmost city in Argentina and is known as “the end of the world,” but on this vacation, it will be the beginning of everything.
As for timing, the season runs from mid-November to mid-March; it’s negative 90 degrees at the South Pole in the wintertime. There’s an eternal sunshine of the Antarctic mind in the summertime — the sun never sets for months. But when you visit during this time frame does impact your trip; there’s usually the sunniest weather in January — and on my recent voyage, I was able to sail below the Antarctic Circle, which is rare.
(Video provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
The famed Drake Passage is notoriously rough sailing — and waves can vary and rise to 60 feet. If it’s a calm passage, and the water is not too rough, it’s a Drake Lake; if it’s rough, it’s the Drake Shake. But any passage is a good passage, and you will feel accomplished once you finally arrive in Antarctica and see the first iceberg float by.
The major thing about seasickness is once you are seasick, it’s impossible to become not seasick anymore, so preventative measures are major. It’s important to hydrate, and also recommended to eat green apples. Though the apples aren’t scientifically proven, it’s believed that the natural sugars help to settle your stomach — and when you’re on the Drake Passage, you want to set yourself up for success. So, an apple (a couple of times) a day is recommended.
Avoid small enclosures, like your cabin in particular — which is why booking a more luxurious cruise line is important to take advantage of the various lounge areas. Resist staying in your bed, in your room. Look out at the horizon, it prevents nausea, and the ultimate remedy is to step out on deck and look out to the sea — bracing air and wind is rejuvenating, also.
But if you’re someone who is known to get sick, then you should order a Dramamine patch in advance. Seasickness medication is known to make you sleepy, drowsy, and lower your IQ, but there’s nothing worse than getting sick on a boat. So, if you’re prone to seasickness, order the patch to wear behind your ear, just in case. Finally, to booze or not to booze? I drank Baileys on the way there and refrained on the way back — though alcohol on a bumpy passage can be fun. It’s like sleeping in a waterbed at night.
Adventures on Thin Ice
(Image provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
Though there are many options for cruise travel to Antarctica, it’s best to cater your trip to a cruise that suits your lifestyle. For a mixture of luxury and adventure, the Viking Polaris expedition offers an amazing Explorer’s Bar, an on-site spa, and infinity plunge pools. Additionally, focusing on an ethical outfitter is of maximum importance, as the landscape of Antarctica is so precious and fragile. On the Polaris, scientists were doing research on board and evaluating the ocean’s microplastics. Plus, the full team of archeologists, geologists, ornithologists, and all manners of experts were on hand to teach us about the destination while aboard the ship.
You will also want to consider the adventures offered for landings, as well as the amenities and amusements available on-board the ship. Even though it’s an adventure to Antarctica, it’s still a cruise and you will want spaces and activities to distract yourself during the times between landings. Additionally, if you’re prone to seasickness, claustrophobia enhances the conditions to make it worse, so lounge areas or ample deck space is a matter of staying healthy, too.
(Video provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
As for adventure options, we set out on kayaks and zodiac cruises and explored various islands during morning and afternoon landings. The Viking Polaris also offers Special Operations Boats and submarine trips. Of course, we signed up for the evening lectures, as well, held by the naturalists and experts. It’s important to consider that, though the activities will vary by ship, you should also pick a cruise that prioritizes safety, as well. And, even if the weather doesn’t participate and you’re stuck on the boat for the day, and spend the hours at sea, there’s always looking out your cabin window or sightseeing from the deck. The bird watching and the whale watching were spectacular, as was simply observing the landscape as it rolled by in shades of white and blue, ever-changing and unforgettable.
Packing Tips for the South Pole
(Image provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
What to expect? In short, expect the unexpected. The itinerary for trips in Antarctica change all the time, based on the weather. Bring many books — you will have ample time to read. For topical reading material, consider Endurance by Shackleton or even Where’d Ya Go Bernadette. It’s less cold than you would imagine, as you will be within the heated comfort of the ship to offset your outings — and a sauna post-landing, is always recommended — so prepare for wet, almost more so than cold.
Pack the same layers you would pack for skiing, and a variety of hats, headbands, and gaiters — when you’re looking at pictures, as many expeditions require you all to wear the same jackets on-land, this will be the way you can differentiate your days. Additionally, pack metal-less sunglasses, the metal will be cold on your face. And ski goggles for windy days when the ice is flying at you horizontally.
You will want to also pack extra gloves, as these will get the most frigid and cold, especially as you’re removing them to take pictures. Bring a dry bag, for your camera, and also extra layers of long-johns, goretex, and spandex. Finally, even though you’re going to the South Pole, the climate won’t always be so frigid and Arctic, especially on the boat. Packing light layers, tee shirts, casual pants, and nice clothing for dinner in the evening too, especially on more luxury ships, is important.
One thing to note on these expeditions, is you will have more time on-deck than on other cruises, where you will have the opportunity to disembark at various docks. While there are some cruises that are more hardcore than Viking in terms of activities, I was happy to be on a ship that followed environmental protocols and prioritized passenger safety. Additionally, there are even more expensive versions of this trip, but I found the Polaris to be the perfect blend of luxury and adventure. So, think as much about your outfits for wearing on the ship as you do about the clothes you will wear when you boat or kayak or hike across the ice.
Lastly, do remember to bring a good camera! There are few places on earth as majestic as Antarctica, and while iPhones have certainly improved over the years, a Leica is far better at capturing the subtle gradations of gray, white, and blue. And given the time spent on deck and the endless sunshine, you will have ample opportunities to capture snapshots from the trip of a lifetime.
